Ever wanted to go to a place that just feels out of this world? A place so magnificent that it shows you there is beauty even in nothingness. That's Spiti for you.
Spiti Valley is a cold desert, one of the very few cold deserts in the world. It's barren. You won't see any vegetation for kilometers, but you'll see the Spiti River flowing beside you at almost every turn. This is an experience that everyone who loves the mountains should have, but it's definitely not for the faint-hearted.
Spiti River
After lots of research and planning (don't worry, we'll share our planning document at the end of the blog), we packed our gear and set out to explore Spiti in September 2025. We planned to start the trip from Chandigarh in our own car. We packed it to the brim with camera gear, warm clothes, food, water, and a little more than we probably needed. It's safe to say we were overprepared, and we weren't complaining.
Day 1
Day 1 was all about driving from Chandigarh to Narkanda. It's roughly a 6-hour drive, but we always add at least 2 hours to the Google Maps estimate for stops and traffic. For this drive, we added 3 hours because the route passes through Shimla, one of the busiest cities in Himachal Pradesh.
The drive was foggy, chilly, and everything you'd expect from a mountain road. We reached Narkanda late in the evening and were so tired that we simply ordered room service, had dinner, and called it a day.
Foggy Mountain Drive
Day 2
The next morning, we started at around 9 AM and left for Kalpa. This is a 160 km drive and takes roughly 8 hours. We had planned multiple stops along the way, so we weren't in any hurry. The drive runs alongside the Sutlej River for most of the journey. Along the way, you'll come across the famous half-tunnel roads, deep cliffs on one side, and the river flowing far below. As you get closer to Kalpa, the majestic Kinner Kailash range slowly comes into view, welcoming you to the town.
Narkanda to Kalpa
Our stay was a little uphill from Kalpa. We were asked to reach a specific point and then follow the road uphill from there. The property is one of the highest glamping stays in India. The property manager had already warned us that the last stretch was quite steep and could be challenging for some drivers.
And that's exactly what happened.
Steep road
Our car was fully loaded and simply refused to climb the steep slope. A few people from the property came down to help us. We unloaded all our luggage and tried again. With people pushing the car and a bit of luck, we finally made it to the property. But there was a problem. We had burnt our clutch. At that moment, we genuinely thought the trip might end there. Smoke was coming out from the car, and we were convinced the clutch was gone. Since this happened in Kalpa, there were a few local mechanic shops nearby. But if the same thing had happened later in Spiti, finding a mechanic would have been next to impossible. We decided to take the car to a mechanic the next morning and hope for the best.
Thankfully, the views from the property made us forget the stress for a while. The entire Kinner Kailash range stood right in front of us under a crystal-clear night sky. It easily made it to our list of the best night skies we've ever witnessed in Himachal.
Kalpa Stay
Day 3
The next day, we decided to take it slow. Our first stop was the mechanic. He checked the car and told us that it was fine to continue the trip and that it would make it to Spiti and back. He suggested getting a proper inspection done once we returned home. We let out a sigh of relief. Our trip was still on.
After that, we visited the Kalpa main market and had lunch at one of the small local eateries. The aunty's food was amazing. We had momos and biryani, and both were delicious. Once we were done exploring the market, we left for Roghi Village. We weren't expecting the drive to be this majestic. There were vertical cliffs on one side and rocky mountain walls on the other. This is what driving on cliffs actually feels like.
We stopped at Rolla Cliff. We had seen videos where people stood right on the edge of the cliff, but when we visited, railings had been installed, making it much safer.
Suicide Point
We continued till Roghi Village, but it was getting late, so we decided to turn around and head back to Kalpa.
Day 4
My partner started feeling a bit feverish in the morning. The previous night, there were power cuts, and the room got very cold. After taking a paracetamol, we decided to continue with the plan.
We had to drive to Tabo, which is about 160 km away and takes roughly 6 to 8 hours. We had planned multiple stops along the route. The first stop was an unexpected one. About an hour after leaving Kalpa, we came across a waterfall flowing right onto the road. We stopped there for a while before continuing our journey.
Waterfall
Next, we reached Khab Sangam, where the Spiti River meets the Sutlej River. On the opposite side, you can also see Reo Purgyil, the highest peak in Himachal Pradesh. Khab Sangam is at an altitude of around 8,000 feet, and within the next two hours, you climb to Nako, which sits at nearly 12,000 feet. That's a gain of almost 4,000 feet in just a couple of hours. By the time we reached Nako, both of us had started feeling a little dizzy, so we stopped for lunch. Around the same time, my partner's fever started rising again. It seemed like the medicine had worn off.
Khab Sangam and Reo Purgyil
With no proper place to rest, we decided to push on. We passed all the famous spots along the way, including the winding roads and the Moonland rock formations near Chango Village, but we didn't stop anywhere.
Winding roads and Chango rock formations
Somehow, we made it to Tabo. And that's where we completely crashed. The fever had climbed to 104°F and just wouldn't come down.
Day 5, 6, 7, 8
Our plan was to leave for Kaza the next day, but things didn't go as expected. Instead, we had to extend our stay, not by one day, but by three more days.
Stay in Tabo
On the first day, we asked the owner of our stay if there was a doctor nearby. He told us there was only one doctor in Tabo, and he didn't make home visits. The owner even offered to take us to the clinic, but we weren't in any condition to go. The next day happened to be a national holiday, so the doctor wasn't available. My partner's fever just wouldn't break. We kept checking the oxygen levels, which thankfully remained normal, but the fever continued. We had all the basic medicines with us and tried everything we could, including cold compresses, but nothing seemed to help.
The following day, we decided to give it one more try. The stay owner was incredibly kind and once again offered to take us to the doctor. We tried calling him several times, but he didn't answer. So, we decided to go anyway. Just when we were about five minutes away, he finally picked up the call and told us that he was out of station.
It was the first time we had ever needed a doctor while travelling and couldn't even speak to one.
Day 9, 10
The same day, we arranged for a driver who could take us back to Kalpa the next day, and then from Kalpa to Shimla the following day, before heading back to our corporate lives.
Some Observations About Spiti
- The people here are incredibly kind and always willing to help.
- Even if you've thought of every possible scenario and planned everything perfectly, something will definitely go off plan. Embrace the unknown because that's what makes the journey memorable.
- Carry basic medicines and a first-aid kit. Medical facilities are limited, especially in remote villages.
- Acclimatization is important. Listen to your body, stay hydrated, and don't ignore symptoms of altitude sickness.
- Spiti is raw, rugged, and unlike any place we've been to. It isn't the most comfortable destination, but that's exactly what makes it so special.
Spiti
Wrapping Up
This is a wrap on Spiti 0.0. Sadly, we weren't able to complete the Spiti circuit this time. But we'll definitely be back soon. Those cold, barren mountains did something to us that we won't be able to stay away for too long.
Ultimate Spiti Map -
Spiti Circuit Map
Google maps we followed -
Ultimate Spiti Trip guide - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Kr8p63201rmrLfB7nCgOWxvT6AHuI5T1gFB9ojfJLyk/edit?tab=t.0
Youtube Spiti Playlist -
Over the years, we've been building a collection of everything that makes our journeys a little easier. From the cameras and gear we film with, to our road trip essentials, travel accessories, camping equipment, and even a few everyday favourites that we genuinely love. We keep updating this list as we discover better products and learn from every trip. If you're curious about what we carry on our adventures, you can explore our complete gear list here:
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